AustraliaSeptember 2025

12th–13th September, Zürich → Hong Kong → Sydney

14th September, Sydney

At the automated passport-control gate they take that infamous photo, the one snapped when you’re totally glazed over from exhaustion. It prints on a ticket you have to hand over later. Mine is a masterpiece of fatigue: I look like I’m about to climb out of the paper and cause some brutal murder within seven days.

By the time we were through, our pre-booked transfer had abandoned us; one hour of waiting had passed, and we were 15 minutes too late. After 23 hours of travel, figuring out transport on our own was not fun.

Our hotel room wasn’t ready at 10 a.m., so we wandered off for brunch at Paramount Coffee Project. What a delight! The sourdough bread was divine. I had avocado toast with cherry tomatoes, and Oliver went for a bruschettone with stracciatella and chili powder. The vibe was perfect, lively but not noisy. I’d love to return before heading back to Europe.

The neighborhood between Hyde Park and Surry Hills charmed us right away: colorful but not garish buildings, leafy streets, and a relaxed atmosphere. Practical matters next, an e-sim. Since we needed good coverage in the Outback and Queensland, we had to visit a store (ID verification didn’t work online). The first attempt was a fail, too busy, but soon after, our room was ready. Finally, a shower and a nap… though for me, that nap nearly finished me. Luckily Oliver managed to wake up and keep us moving.

We played the proper tourists and walked down to the Opera House, taking all the cliché photos while trying to stay awake until night. Dinner was at Bar Patrón, Circular Quay. Cool vibes, a tad overpriced, and not for the very hungry. We went for Tacos, fried peanuts, and grilled corn (the highlight!) were tasty, but portions are small. We stuck to alcohol-free cocktails, exhaustion made us skip the real thing, which is a pity since the bar specialties are proper cocktails. For dessert, we hunted long and far, but everything was closing (fair, it was Sunday evening). We finally ended up with a pistachio crepe, more out of stubbornness than real craving.

One silver lining of our failed dessert hunt was the discovery that we could simply tap and go with our phone or credit card on Sydney’s public transport. Thank you to whoever made that feature possible. Not having to fuss with tickets and machines is an absolute game-changer.

Back at the hotel, melatonin worked wonders, and we slept almost normally.

15th September, Sydney · Coogee & Bondi

My favorite part? The ocean pool. Reading about it, I’d dismissed it as overrated. But standing there, waves crashing into the rocks and spilling into the pool, I was blown away.

A large bird with a long, hooked beak caught our attention. It reminded me of the old plague masks once worn by doctors, though far more elegant. To us it looked wonderfully exotic. But we quickly learned it’s as common here as pigeons are in Europe. The locals must have thought us ridiculous, snapping so many photos.

Most people walk Bondi → Coogee, but I’m glad we did it “in reverse,” because it meant we ended up at Uncut Seafood Delicatessen for lunch. Well ended up might be an overstatement. We thought that walking only another km wasn’t too bad, but sadly for us it was all up, in the burning sun. We should have taken the bus! The uncut seafood delicatessen seems to have started as a fish shop, later turned into a restaurant/takeaway. Clean, simple, modern, unfussy interiors. We had grilled barramundi and snapper, both local and never tried in Europe. They were served with roasted veggies and pita bread, the portions were generous. As an Italian bread addict, I ordered extra pita, thankfully available as a side.

Some reviews call it “just grilled fish.” Honestly, I don’t get it. It was fresh, simple, and delicious. Not everything needs to swim in creamy sauces! If I had one complaint, it would be the disposable plates, understandable for cost reasons, but I would have loved real dishes.

Fifty meters away, temptation struck again. The Frutologist. I’m smitten. I had a fruit salad with yogurt and mango pudding (small size, but not small at all). Oliver got a mango smoothie with almond milk. We also stocked up on oat and nut bars, perfect for all the kilometers ahead.

The afternoon was slower: we “dressed up” as best as backpackers can and strolled around the Opera House again. Drinks at Opera Bar were perfect, sunset beer, fantastic vibe, no intrusive club music. Just atmosphere. I loved one could easily order via QR code at the table.

Dinner was at Midden by Mark Olive. Highly recommended. We weren’t too hungry after our big lunch, so just mains: my dish was a glorious celebration of vegetables, proof that veggies are anything but boring. Oliver had chicken on a vegetable purée and was clearly very happy with it. Dining outside, overlooking the harbor, was just what we were hoping for.

The evening ended with a performance of Carmen at the Opera House. Opera isn’t really my thing, and jet lag made it hard to stay awake, but I have to admit: the staging and set design were absolutely breathtaking.

16th September, Sydney · The Rocks

After the tour, we wandered through beautiful art galleries. I fell in love with one artist’s work, especially a vibrant painting of an emu. The colors were alive, almost pulsating. I wanted it so badly, but it was expensive, and bringing it back to Zurich (plus framing it) would be complicated. I left my heart in that shop… maybe before heading home, I’ll give in and make it mine.

For lunch we treated ourselves at Maydanoz Restaurant Bar, a Turkish-inspired spot. The food was outstanding. Their signature dish, grilled halloumi with honey, is unforgettable. The stone-baked bread was everything you dream bread to be, and the kingfish steak was juicy and tender. Every dish was cooked to perfection. I was stuffed afterwards, but so happy.

During our marathon walk that day (we logged over 20 kilometers!), we stumbled upon some curious sights. First, a luna park with a rollercoaster whose tracks run, I checked, just 5 to 10 meters from the neighboring buildings. Imagine standing on your balcony and having a rollercoaster whizzing past only seven meters away! I sincerely hope those residents get an outrageous discount on their rent.

Then, in a small city park, we came across a flock of huge birds that looked like turkeys. About twenty of them, just wandering freely in the middle of the city. It felt surreal to see such big creatures strutting around and even bickering with each other in an urban setting. Of course, we stopped to take photos and videos, though I’ll admit I wasn’t exactly fearless. every time one of them moved suddenly, I jumped like a spring.

We kept strolling through the city with no real plan and decided to stop for juice at Mango Coco. Sadly, a letdown: canned fruit, syrupy flavors, and a seating policy that requires spending at least 10 AUD per person (naturally, everything is priced at 9.90 so you’re forced to buy two).

After a short rest, we headed to Chinatown. Honestly, it didn’t impress me, it felt like a collection of cheap Asian eateries without much character. From there, we moved on to Newtown, which struck me as the sad, less-attractive sister of Camden Town. A wide, busy car street, not much atmosphere (granted, it was Tuesday). Maybe it’s cooler if you’re younger, but approaching 33, I couldn’t see the hype.

A little disappointed, we walked and walked in search of a cozy spot. After more than an hour, we found Copain. What a gem! Small, stylish, with a great vibe, good wine, and a perfect aperitivo selection: sourdough bread, home made butter, olives, and fried chickpea panisse. The night was saved, and we went to sleep content.

17th September, Sydney · Manly & Barangaroo

One thing is certain: Sydney has no shortage of large lizards. We spotted several species, spiky and impressive, scattered here and there. Manly is also home to the only penguin colony in the area. Naturally, we didn’t see them, they’re extremely elusive, and honestly, better left undisturbed by tourists like me.

For lunch we stopped at this spot and shared falafel, a greens-and-quinoa salad, and an açai bowl. I’d been craving one since we landed, it’s everywhere here, and clearly I’m not immune to trends! If you’ve never tried it, picture frozen blended fruit topped with granola, more fruit, and nuts. A mountain of “healthy” sugar. The café was just right for a quick stop, with cheerful staff who made the experience even better.

In the afternoon, we visited the MCA (Museum of Contemporary Art). Alongside the permanent collection, there was a light installation that was unexpectedly captivating. We were lucky, the gallery was nearly empty, and a staff member kindly shared extra insights that enriched our visit.

Later, we strolled through Barangaroo. I loved the atmosphere: elegant, lively, effortlessly cool. Being there at golden hour made everything glow. The towering buildings looked majestic, though I doubt I’d enjoy living in them (not that it’s even remotely within my budget!).

Dinner was at Callao Barangaroo, a gem. When I read “4-course meal,” I assumed it meant choosing one option per course. To my surprise, it was actually four full courses, each with two plates! Some were meat-based, but the chef seamlessly adapted the menu to be pescatarian for me. Every dish was a triumph, a masterful balance of flavors and textures. If you’re in Sydney, don’t miss this restaurant.

18th September, Sydney → Uluru

Packing had been a puzzle, should we take only a small daypack, or a medium one with everything for three days? Did we really need to carry 3 liters of water each? So many questions, no clear answers. We did our best and hoped it would be enough.

At the airport, things started smoothly… until security. Oli was stopped because he’d left his Swiss Army knife in his hand luggage. That’s what you get for marrying a Swiss man! The staff offered to check the small carry-on so we could keep the knife. Problem solved? Not yet. Suddenly we realized Oliver’s Apple Watch was missing. Thanks to Apple’s tracking, we knew it was still somewhere at security. So we split up: I queued forever to check the bag, while Oli went searching for the watch. Happy ending: Swiss Army knife saved, Apple Watch found.

On the flight we had WiFi so Oliver unlocked a new level of planning… he not only planned what to do in Daintree and stranding, but even booked 2 activities! Digital travellers and where to find them.

Once aboard, our guide met us, and the red-sand adventure began. Fun fact: this area runs on a half-hour time zone! Apparently, we’re not the only honeymooners on the trip, so much for being original.

Among our group was one particularly curious character, straight out of The Big Lebowski. His desert “outfit”: Bermuda shorts, two plastic Hawaiian flower necklaces, no shirt, no shoes. The very first thing he did after stepping off the bus? Cover himself in red sand.

Our first walk was around Uluru itself, that majestic monolith whose deep red color comes from oxidation. Many sections are off-limits to photography, as they are sacred to local clans. Our guide explained that she would only share stories and knowledge from the regions she is certified to teach about. I deeply admire the respect shown toward Indigenous culture, after all, local communities only came into contact with Europeans about 200 years ago. It makes sense to take baby steps.

We began under a scorching sun… and then it started raining! With only about 30 rainy days a year here, of course one had to be today. Goodbye, glorious sunset? At least the clouds made the walk easier, shading us from the heat. Thankfully it never poured, just a few drops.

Still, we went to the sunset lookout with low expectations. The sky was heavy with clouds, and then, almost miraculously, a strip of clear sky opened near the horizon. Suddenly the rock ignited, glowing with vivid crimson against the rusty cliffs. It was breathtaking, impossible to choose between snapping photos and simply watching. It lasted only a few minutes, like all the most beautiful things. The campsite is what they call “participation camp.” Honestly, it’s not my style. I’m a bit of a princess, and the dirty, dusty vibe isn’t my favorite. Right now, I’m slightly regretting this choice. Hopefully, I’ll manage some sleep tonight. Though, if I’m honest, I knew I’d feel like this

Let’s get cleaned… for what it’s worth

Shared shower time! Oliver and I, of course, had only one soap between us (technically two, but the other one was buried in some mysterious corner of a backpack). So the routine was: one showered, the other waited, since we had to go to different gendered bathrooms anyway.

Dinner was fine: wraps with minced meat and salad for Oli, falafel for me. Although, when I think about how we “washed” the cutlery afterwards, I still get goosebumps.

Time for bed. We arranged our swags in a circle around the fire. We’d rented sleeping bags but also brought silk liners to slide inside. I kept my pants on, I couldn’t bear the thought of my skin touching anything. Even my own stuff felt questionable.

I tried sleeping “the swag way,” fully zipped up like a coffin. Instant suffocation. I gave up, left it open, and prayed no creepy-crawlies would sneak in. Just in case, I wore a fly net over my head, not only for bugs but also as a protective barrier between my face and the suspiciously grubby swag fabric.

Just as I was about to drift off: tic tic tic, rain! Our guide herded us all under a small shelter. Right call, it later turned into a storm. Remember the weird guy from yesterday? He stayed out in the rain.

Falling asleep was hopeless. It was boiling hot, the air was dead still, and the swag + sleeping bag combo was clearly designed for winter. I was drenched in sweat and stripped down to just a T-shirt. As if that wasn’t enough, a full snoring symphony kicked off (yes, Oliver joined at some point). I caught bits of sleep here and there until, at 3:30, dingoes started howling. Awesome and terrifying. And our weird guy? He stood up and started barking back.

19th September, Kata Tjuta → Kings Canyon

At 4:30 our guide shook us awake for a rushed breakfast. Thankfully, as with every hike, there were endless snacks.

First stop: sunrise. Or at least, that was the plan, the clouds weren’t merciful this time.

Then off to the Valley of the Winds (the name is not a joke). Wind was absolutely crazy! No photos allowed anyway, it’s a sacred place, and women of the local clan aren’t allowed at all (luckily tourists get an exception).

I liked today’s hike much better than yesterday’s, though my feet are begging for mercy (spoiler: they won’t get it). The trail was rocky and steep, but the colors… unreal.

Back at camp: camel burgers for everyone, veggie burgers for me. Then four hours on the road to the next campsite. Quick shower (no shampoo for me, my hair takes forever to dry, and I wasn’t risking pneumonia). The fire pit here was spectacular, the red soil even deeper, almost blood-colored.

We went to a sunset lookout, clouds again. This time we wore fly nets. Ugly but effective. After dinner, swags in a circle again while someone strummed a guitar.

A storm rolled in, so once again we squeezed under a shelter. No snoring concert this time, just greasy smells and one poor soul reporting something crawling on their face (probably a rat). Water dripped on me through a hole in the roof, but honestly, the rat was worse.

20th September, Kings Canyon

Next morning: quick breakfast, then off to Kings Canyon, hands down the best part of the trip. Rain threatened, so Oliver and I threw on our rain ponchos (the only ones in the group, looking ridiculous but dry). In the end, it didn’t pour, but 500 steps up + rocky hike + 500 steps down on wet stone was no joke.

Here, the red earth clashed beautifully with fresh green. Our guide said just weeks ago it looked dead, but spring was bringing it back to life. The contrast was breathtaking. At one point we all shouted “koowiiiiii!” into the canyon and laughed as the echo came back.

The Garden of Eden lived up to its name, a lush blessing after days of red dust. And the best bonus: fresh water! After days of chlorine-tasting tap water, filling our bottles felt like heaven.

Sadly, Oliver started feeling sick, probably exhaustion plus our questionably “clean” cutlery.

On the long way to our last camp we stopped for wood for the fire and many people cut themselves against the wood (well, there’s a reason why we did not wear short…) Anyway it was disgusting. On any open cut flies were accumulating… thankfully I had my little pharmacy with me and I started spraying people with disinfectant and handing over gauzes.

Last camp was a bush camp: aka no water, no toilets, no electricity. A joke, considering a “luxury” campsite with all the amenities was less than a kilometer away. The upside? We had the place to ourselves.

Finally, clear skies! We did some stargazing, utterly magical. The Milky Way glowed like never before. But bedtime… disaster.

Thirty minutes in, I had to pee. Tried to hold it, failed. Woke Oliver, who (rightly) reminded me he’d asked before bed if I needed to go. I couldn’t make him get up again, so off I went alone, shaking like a leaf, praying no spider would crawl anywhere inappropriate. Managed… though I did slightly pee on my shoes. At this point, who even cares.

Later, it got cold enough that we had to fully zip our swags. Cue a mini panic attack for me. I counted the hours until morning.

21st September, Outback → Cairns

Guide woke us at 6 for breakfast, then it was straight to the airport. Our flight was delayed by 30 minutes (we’d known since the night before, but honestly, we were so desperate to escape the dirt we were happy to wait at the airport).

We changed into fresh jumpers, socks, underwear, and T-shirts (pants still filthy from four days of camping). My hair was so greasy I couldn’t look at it without cringing. Big pack of wipes = lifesaver. At least we felt a little human again. Cappuccino and muffins at the airport café sealed it.

Final thoughts on the tour

The food was way better than expected, tasty, always with veggies and fruit (a miracle out here). We had three vegetarians (including me, plus my intolerance to capsicum, “bell peppers,” in non Australia English) and one gluten-free traveler. Our guide (also gluten-free) made sure nobody went hungry or got sick. Snacks were always available.

What I didn’t like: the lack of information. We never really knew the plan, which made packing and prepping stressful. Even now, I only half know what I’ve actually visited!

21st September, Cairns → Palm Cove

We landed in Cairns. Massive love for Qantas Airlines, their economy class is sooo comfortable. Loads of legroom, good food (even vegetarian-friendly!). Since everything was neatly packed in little cartons, we took it with us. That’ll be tomorrow’s breakfast, we need to leave at 7:30 a.m.

Picked up the rental car at the airport and off we went, 25 minutes to Palm Cove. Since Oli’s still not feeling great, I drove. My first time driving on the “other” side of the road (…stupid British colony!). Apart from constantly turning on the wipers instead of the indicators, it actually went fine. Oliver very gracefully reminded me which side of the road we were supposed to be on.

We arrived at our apartment and… wooooow. I’m already sad we’re leaving tomorrow. One small hiccup: they hadn’t given us the code to get the key. After a couple of calls (and 15 minutes of suspense), we were in.

It’s a small property with about ten apartments, a lovely pool in the middle, and lots of tropical plants. The apartment itself is gorgeous: modern and well kept. We opened our bags like a bomb had exploded inside. Laundry was urgent. First load in, then showers. Aaaaah, my scalp finally feels human again.

Afterwards, we went for a walk along the sea. The coastline is stunning, with crazy-strong winds (apparently normal for rainforest areas). What really stands out are the dozens of crocodile warning signs along the beach… yet people still swim! There’s even a big bottle of white vinegar available in case someone gets stung by jellyfish.

Overall, Palm Cove is the kind of beach town you could find almost anywhere in the world: cute, but filled with holiday homes and resorts. Lots of families and older folks around. No complaints though..we actually needed a quieter place after the outback.

We stopped for a drink and a bruschetta at Vivo Palm Cove. Not sure if it’s a new trend or the Aussie way, but sourdough bread seems to be everywhere, and I couldn’t be happier about it.

Quick run back to the apartment to put on something warmer and… argh!!! The laundry hadn’t finished. Error message. Looked like the wash was done, but the drying cycle never started. After a few failed attempts, we tried splitting the load (maybe too heavy?) and ran a dry cycle only.

Dinner was at Nu Nu. What a vibe. Banana hanging from the ceiling, beachfront patio, super friendly staff. The setting raised expectations sky-high, and the food did not disappoint. Amazing combinations of familiar Western flavors with exotic twists. Special shoutout to the ricotta tortelloni: it’s a rare day when an Italian actually enjoys pasta abroad (especially outside an Italian restaurant). Chapeau!

Back at the apartment… bad news. The dryer still hadn’t worked. We called the host again, who very kindly offered to dry our clothes in the staff room (the place has no permanent staff, so everything was handled over the phone). We laid a big towel on the floor (thankfully there were extras) and gathered the soggy clothes.

Drying attempt #2 is underway. Will it work? We’ll find out tomorrow morning when the alarm goes off at 5:45!

22nd September, Kuranda → Port Douglas

To make things extra smooth, Oliver has a fever of 39°C. I guess I’ll catch it in a couple of days too. So back in the car, driving on the “wrong” side of the road again. We weren’t late, but also didn’t have much margin. I was terrified of taking the wrong turn and missing our bus. But we made it on time.

Today we’re visiting the rainforest via the scenic railway and cable car. The train is pure tourist mode: it even slows down near waterfalls or viewpoints. The ride was so hot, though. At one point, when we crossed a valley with a cold wind blowing from the shore, it felt heavenly.

When we hopped off, we saw a stall selling mango smoothies. Huge disappointment. It turned out to be mostly blended ice cream with whipped cream, and only a hint of mango. Thankfully, we only bought one to share, and didn’t even finish it.

Kuranda is exactly as touristy as you’d imagine: food stalls one, after another, endless gift shops. Still, I managed to find a nice T-shirt for my dad (who had threatened to never speak to me again if I came back without one!) and one for my brother. I chose 100% cotton ones, supposedly pre-shrunk, we’ll see, and the upside is that they give royalties to the artist who designed them. I also found a lovely necklace for my mum, with stones found only in Australia (in another region with respect to where we are now, but still)

We had lunch at Petit Café (https://maps.app.goo.gl/rEDDCVGNAEhPWWRr9?g_st=ipc). It looked slightly better than the rest. I had an omelette, my stomach wasn’t ready for more cheese or milk. Oli had a proper galette with cheese, egg, and bacon. He didn’t finish it all, but ate most of it, which made me happy, he’s finally feeling a bit better.

On the way to the cable car, I witnessed a hilarious scene: a little girl (maybe 5 years old) offered her popsicle to her brother. As expected, he took a giant bite, and she let out a scream of horror. Rookie mistake. Rule number one: never share food with a sibling.

While waiting for the gondola, Oliver, being Swiss, was very amused by how much Australians celebrate cable cars (gift shop, photo ops, the works). For him, it’s just another gondola, like the countless ones in Switzerland.

The Skyrail is divided into three sections (10 + 20 + 15 minutes), with stops in between where you can get out to enjoy viewpoints and learn about the rainforest. Did you know the Australian rainforest is 130 million years older than the Amazon? I was a bit nervous at first, but the view from above the treetops is breathtaking. Even Oliver admitted that while cable cars are nothing new for him, this panorama is incredible. Tall, thin trees fight their way upward for sunlight, each showing off its own unique leaves. And to top it off, you get a spectacular view of the ocean, where the rainforest meets the Great Barrier Reef.

Next stop: Port Douglas. The drive is winding but stunning. We parked on the street, streets here are so wide that our tiny Toyota Yaris looks like a toy car.

At the apartment, we rushed to do laundry. Spoiler: we rushed so much we forgot the sweaters. No clean sweaters for us, next chance in two days. We strolled around town a bit. Port Douglas is livelier than Palm Cove, but still very much a beach-holiday town.

Dinner was at Watergate Port Douglas (link above). Gorgeous setting, nice décor, relaxed vibe. Too relaxed, maybe. We sat down at 19:45, but waited 20 minutes just to order, and 45 minutes before seeing any food. When it finally arrived, it wasn’t bad (a solid 4/5), but you could tell it had been sitting around before being served. Such a shame, the place looks amazing, but the service is clearly chaotic.

On the way home we had a funny encounter. Some long-legged birds suddenly started “singing”, more like screaming from the depths of hell. It went on for a good 20 seconds. Then we realised the street was full of them. We tried to film them, but whenever we started recording video they froze like statues; when we tried to take photos, they bolted. Mischievous little creatures.

23rd September, Daintree Rainforest

Packing again, then off to Toast Sandwich Bar for pancakes, fluffy, cloud-like pancakes. Honestly, it felt like eating a cloud… a strawberry, whipped cream, maple syrup–drenched cloud! Definitely a dish best shared, but wow, it was so good. The cappuccinos (both dairy and non-dairy) were excellent too. Chapeau to this place.

Next up was a river cruise to spot crocodiles. I’ll admit, I was skeptical at first. But I learned that Queensland enforces strict regulations on how these tours operate. Unlike Darwin, where cruises hang meat from boats to lure crocodiles (which I find cruel and dangerous), here you’re not allowed to chase, bait, or provoke them. Our guide was fantastic, his every word reflected deep respect and love for these animals. With 28 years of crocodile research behind him, his passion shone through. I also loved that our boat was solar-powered and nearly silent. Not so silent, however, was the kid next to me, likely with ADHD, bouncing around nonstop, while his dad scrolled on his phone, oblivious. A reminder that not everyone is cut out for patiently waiting in stillness for wildlife to appear.

Despite the heat (too warm for crocodiles to bask out of water), we were lucky enough to spot two adult females, one huge male (Big Nick, appropriately named), and two youngsters born just this year.

We then drove our car onto a ferry platform that silently carried us across the river. From there, the road cut through rainforest. Don’t imagine Indiana Jones–style adventure, the roads here are immaculate, far better maintained than in southern Italy. Driving felt like gliding through a cathedral of glowing green trees closing in tens of meters above us.

We meant to stop at Alexandra Lookout but missed it, so instead we visited the Discovery Center. It’s nice, though the audio guides could be more concise. Sadly, the Jindalba Boardwalk, known for cassowary sightings, was closed for restoration.

Lunch was a shared wrap at the Discovery Center, we kept it light to save space for the legendary Daintree Ice Cream Company. And oh, it delivered! Flavors unlike anything we’d find in Europe. Oliver loved the sour sorbet, while I preferred a fruit (name forgotten) with a surprising chocolate aftertaste. Portions were enormous, prices very reasonable. We couldn’t finish it, especially after the sugary pancakes that morning.

(And though I wish I could say we’re done with sweets, tomorrow brings… fruit tasting!)

That evening we checked into Noah Creek, our glamping site. “Check-in” was amusingly low-tech: a big blackboard listing huts and guest names, tick your name and voilà. No IDs, no verification. In fact, outside of Sydney, no one has checked our IDs at all. The hut itself was cozy, with a real bed and a semi-outdoor bathroom, sheltered, yet part of the wild.

Before our night rainforest tour, we explored a few lookouts. Noah Beach was breathtaking, not only for its vast stretch of fine, pale sand and turquoise water, but for the way the rainforest suddenly gives way to ocean. “Where the rainforest meets the reef,” as the signs proudly declare. Stunning.

Still full from ice cream, dinner was just a few crackers we’d stashed from earlier days. Then we strolled another boardwalk, spotting a plump bird reminiscent of a turkey, perhaps a rainforest turkey? Its nest nearby was said to be over a hundred years old.

Funnily enough, our night tour later took us along the same boardwalk, but of course the darkness transformed everything. Our guide was excellent, clearly in love with his job.

Wildlife spotted:

• Cane toad (invasive here, brought from Europe)
• Various spiders
• Cricket
• Peppermint stick insect
• Small marsupial, kangaroo family, rat-looking
• Tiny mouse
• Green frog (my favorite!)
• Owl
• Some kind of “chicken” bird
• Tiny glowing scorpions

The tour was fascinating, slightly eerie, but so worth it. The green frog especially made me happy. What felt odd was the presence of two young girls (7 and 5) running around unsupervised. Their parents lagged behind while the kids, noisy and restless, ran ahead. At one point, one touched a plant and hurt herself, despite repeated warnings not to. To make matters stranger, this family had a newborn with them. A rainforest night walk with a crying baby? Absolutely unsafe, in my view, too many insects and toxic plants.

Back at camp, reality check: a big spider in the hut. Harmless? Who knows. Oliver bravely ventured into the dark to find the communal kitchen, armed only with his phone light, returning victorious with a glass to scoop it away. Hero of the night.

Finally, just as we were drifting off, choooosh! A sudden downpour hammered the cabin roof like a tipped-over bucket. It lasted all of three minutes, leaving us dry and cozy. Apparently, Oli says it happened twice more overnight. I, blissfully, slept right through it.

24th September, Daintree → Port Douglas

We headed to the Turtle Rock Café, whose food is way better than you’d expect from a roadside café in the middle of the rainforest. I had poached eggs with salmon and toasted bread, very good. Oli had an avocado toast.

Full and satisfied, we moved on to the fun part of the rainforest: zip-lining! I was nervous when Oli suggested it, but honestly it was one of the safest setups I’ve ever seen. Super fun, definitely not “wild.”

One tries to take in the views while zip-lining, but it’s pretty hard. Much easier to look around while waiting on the platforms. At the end there’s a racing section with two parallel lines. I had a great, fast head start, but I twisted in the middle and lost speed… letting Oliver win.

With some time to kill before fruit tasting, we tried another walk further north. We missed the first sign warning that the road was getting rougher, and it was! The next sign confirmed it, but sign or not, it was clear our little city car couldn’t cross the river.

We attempted a short walk nearby, but crocodile warning signs and a massive tree blocking the road quickly discouraged us.

Driving back, we caught some stunning ocean views through the trees. As breathtaking as they were, they were also the result of a massive disaster: Cyclone Jasper in 2023. To give you an idea:

• 5-day rainfall total: over 2,000 mm in some areas, with some sites recording more than 3 meters.
• 24-hour rainfall: over 600 mm in the Daintree catchment.
• Daintree River peak: 14.85 meters, setting a new record flood level.
• People were isolated for 3 months.

One guide told us about two boys who needed to get to school, the community had to help ferry them by boat every day. Absolutely insane. Beautiful views, but with a bitter aftertaste. It will take 50 years for the forest to recover.

We went back to the Turtle Rock Café for a drink. I tried a chai with almond milk, and I think I’ve found a new love.

The fruit tasting was wonderful. As our guide said, in Europe we’re used to thinking good fruit must be sweet, juicy, and crunchy. But not all fruit around the world is like that! We tried some insanely good, yet squishy fruits. The tasting was incredibly interesting and delicious. I really hope I’ll get to try some again.

I also got to taste pure cocoa seeds, so good, I loved them! What’s special about this tour is that you’re served whatever the soil provides. Come on another day, and you’ll find something different.

At first we thought it was a bit expensive, but I take that back, you get tons of fruit, great explanations, and you’re supporting local farmers who already have a tough time in this globalized, corporate-controlled world.

Full of delicious fruit, we drove back toward Port Douglas, hoping to spot a cassowary… but no luck.

Our accommodation check in in Port Douglas is once again “remote.” Just an envelope left at reception, so weird. The place itself looks… average.

For dinner, we went to the Lagoon House Restaurant, which was tricky to find since it’s inside a hotel and poorly marked online. The food was good, but not memorable. What really bothered me was that everything, including wine, was served in reusable plastic glasses.

25th September, Low Isles · Port Douglas

When we arrived at our destination, they handed out fins and masks, ready for us to explore the sea… too bad I was so cold. The water itself was warm, 27 degrees, but outside the water the strong wind and lack of sun made it freezing! I managed to hold it together long enough to spot a beautiful big turtle. The corals were less colorful than I had hoped, but I learned something: the color comes from algae, and when conditions change (even just from normal rain), the algae can become toxic for the coral. The coral then expels it. Colorless coral aren’t dead, but very weak, since they need the algae to survive. There’s even research on the Low Isles about which corals thrive better in different environments, and in an attempt to preserve them, scientists sometimes move corals around.

My fingers eventually went completely numb from the cold, so I got out, but I was still lucky enough to admire a turtle swimming very close to the shore. Such beautiful creatures.

Our guide then showed us around the island, which is tiny, the full walk takes just 10 minutes. Two custodians live there. Not the life I could imagine for myself, but if you like peace and quiet and don’t mind a few tourists now and then, it might be the perfect place.

Back on the boat, it was lunchtime. I could only manage some bread. In the early afternoon we did a short glass-bottom boat tour. It was nice, we even saw a reef shark!

On the way back, since the sea was still very rough, I forced myself to sleep, and that worked out just fine.

Later we looked for fresh coconuts (like the ones we had all the time in Vietnam), but they’re less popular here. We asked at a juice bar, and once again the people showed how friendly they are: the woman told us we could find them at the Sunday market (too late for us) or at the supermarket (though those are imported from Vietnam). I guess no coconut water for us, as we’re leaving the tropics behind tomorrow.

We chilled until dinner, just a small beer to kill some time, then headed to Bam Pow, a 100% plant-based restaurant a bit in the middle of nowhere, hidden like many gems are. I absolutely fell in love with it. The bao bun with “sausage” was just perfect. We also had gyoza and noodles. The noodles were super tasty, though a bit oily at the end. Since it’s our honeymoon, we decided we deserve dessert more often than usual. We had chocolate mousse with shredded coconut.

It was only 9 p.m., but we (especially me) were exhausted. Off to bed with the alarm set for 6 a.m. to pack and leave!

26th September, Queensland · Waterfall circuit

We tried to get an açai bowl, but opening times here seem more like vague suggestions than rules. So instead we grabbed a coffee and a slice of cake at Nourish. Car loaded and off for a long driving day. Well… not much driving for me, I’ve been a princess passenger all along, including plenty of naps.

We stopped at an absolutely wonderful fig tree. It must have been hundreds (thousands?) of years old, and it was stunning. The guide said it’s actually the result of three trees: one original host tree, a fig growing on it, and then a third tree that the first two collapsed onto. Nature’s architecture, absolutely beautiful.

We carried on for a few small lookouts before I had us stop at the cutest café I’d picked out in advance… but it was closed. Instead we ended up in the most absurd diner-slash-gift-slash-clothing shop. Imagine eating at a table surrounded by racks of dresses. I had a “salad toast” (not as horrible as it sounds) and Oliver went for a burger.

Then on to the waterfall circuit. Some of them are just breathtaking.

Our accommodation turned out to be in the middle of nowhere, but the view is incredible, overlooking a national park. The owner told us: “It’s full of turtles. Beautiful animals. But turtles are crocs’ favorite food… so, yes, plenty of crocs too.”

Dinner was at the only open restaurant within miles, a 25-minute drive through nothingness. The place was packed and loud. Well, if you’re the only spot serving food across several towns, I guess that’s what happens. Menu? Fried everything (plus steak). I asked for my fish and chips grilled, and yes, it looked exactly like you’d imagine a place in the middle of nowhere serving fish, chips, and steak.

We waited to have our order taken, only to be told we needed to order at the counter. The food wasn’t bad, honestly, I don’t know how fried potatoes could ever be bad. By 9 pm the restaurant was closed, our teeth brushed, and we were already in bed. We’ll pack tomorrow… I’m so tired of this constant packing-unpacking life.

27th September, Townsville → Magnetic Island

We started the day with a beautiful, relaxed breakfast at our accommodation, overlooking the park. Just lovely.

Then came the two-hour drive to Townsville, a name so redundant it’s almost charming. If only the person who named it had dared to go further: Townsville City!

At the harbour, no parking was left, but once again Australians proved themselves wonderfully kind. A man not only told us about free weekend parking nearby but even offered us his spot since he was leaving. Pure luck, because otherwise there was nothing available.

The ferry ride was a bit wavy but fine. From the port we caught a bus to our accommodation. The fare? 0.50 AUD (about 25 euro cents!). In the end, we didn’t even pay because of the chaos on the bus.

Too early to check in, we left our bags on the front porch. Our home for the night: a container converted into a guesthouse. Not glamorous, but everything else was fully booked, weekend + spring holidays + most places requiring a two-night minimum.

We walked to a café (Nourish again). I had rice and lentils; Oliver had chicken with rice. Not bad, not memorable either. I was just happy to eat something vegetarian. Oliver, who isn’t a big carb eater (unless we’re talking raclette potatoes), left half of his rice behind. Meanwhile, I’ve been craving carbs the whole trip (too Italian to be satisfied by just protein).

The buses here are good but infrequent, every 30, 40, or 60 minutes depending on time of day. From our accommodation it’s 1.3 km to the stop. We walked there under the midday sun, wishing we’d brought our Kindles to kill time.

Our container room is simple: bed, mini-fridge, bathroom, AC. Our host kindly did two loads of laundry for 20 AUD (10 €). The place is only okay clean, so we’ll wash everything again once we’re back in Zurich, but at least our clothes aren’t soaked in sweat anymore.

Then came the koala hunt. Not much luck, we spotted two, asleep, facing the other way. So our photos are basically just zoomed-in koala butts.

We carried on along a trail with beautiful views, but had to rush. Buses are reliable but terribly timed. Missing one would have meant waiting over an hour at the trail’s end. So instead of leisurely nature appreciation, I found myself running uphill, praying we’d catch the bus. Luckily, we made it.

Later we visited a bay where rock wallabies live. Unlike koalas, they’re very happy to accept apples or lettuce from visitors. I loved watching them, they leap impressively far for such small creatures, but I did feel a bit guilty. They’re clearly there for the handouts. Still, at one point we were alone and saw four wallabies bouncing around freely, spectacular.

Dinner was at Barefoot Art Food Wine. Remember when I said barramundi was delicious? Well, I’m getting sick of it. It’s basically the only fish on offer. My grilled barramundi and veggies arrived swimming in oil, the kind my Nonna Rosa always swears is just vegetable water.

We shared a dessert too, enormous in size, but after walking 14 km we had room.

Walked the 1.5 km back to our container. Of course, a cockroach was waiting for us. Oliver bravely escorted it outside.

Exhausted again. Showers, bed, sleep. Tomorrow we’ll try our koala luck again, very early this time!

28th September, Magnetic Island → Airlie Beach

What a night. That cabin was so humid, I felt awful. At one point I had to climb over Oliver just to grab the AC remote. Jeeez.

The alarm went off at 5:50 and we got ready for some koala spotting! We caught the earliest bus to the national park, hoping to beat the squeaky families and noisy crowds.

And we were fully rewarded: a beautiful koala was sleeping on a tree right by the path. We couldn’t have wished for better, it was on the closest tree to the trail, in a perfect spot, with no branches or leaves blocking the view.

Some noisy tourists woke it up, which annoyed me, but at least it meant we also saw it sit up a little and scratch. We stayed there for I don’t know how long, just soaking it in. We were massively lucky. These koalas are truly wild, they’re not rare to see, but they have zero contact with humans (feeding or touching is strictly forbidden).

I was over the moon.

Then it was back to the bus, which, as always, felt stressful since they’re unreliable and only come once an hour. We hopped off, sprinted 10 minutes to the cabin, grabbed all our backpacks, and ran back to catch it again.

Next stop: Picnic Bay, by far the nicest part of the island. Gorgeous trees, peaceful atmosphere. We had cappuccinos and granola bowls at Lava Lava Magnetic Island. Service was slow, but the food was great. Honestly, service has been consistently slower than in Europe. Our theory:

1. People are just more relaxed here.
2. Lots of staff are European backpackers doing casual work, often untrained.

We did a short walk, then went back to Lava Lava for an avocado toast with poached eggs.

Of course, the bus was late, and we caught the ferry by literally one minute.

Back to the car, then 3.5 hours of driving, 200 km of straight nothingness.

Our accommodation? A bit meh. We started thinking about why mid-range stays in Australia often feel disappointing, and it makes sense:

1. High operating costs

• Wages are high (including penalty rates for weekends/holidays). Even small motels pay far more than in many countries.
• Utilities, electricity, water, insurance, are pricey, especially in remote or tropical areas.

2. Limited competition

• Many regional towns only have a handful of motels or holiday parks. With little competition, standards don’t rise, but prices stay high.
• In tourist hotspots (Queensland beaches, reef gateways, national parks), demand is guaranteed in peak season, so owners don’t feel pressure to modernize.

3. Seasonal demand and distance

• Queensland tourism is very seasonal. Prices spike in the dry season (May–October).
• Many destinations are remote, so cleaning, maintenance, and renovations cost more because trades and materials must travel long distances.

4. Aging stock

• Lots of motels outside major cities were built decades ago and never fully renovated, just patched up.

5. Cultural expectations

• In Europe or Asia, you often find chic boutique hotels at affordable prices. In Australia, mid-range tends to mean “functional bed for the night,” not stylish comfort, unless you go full luxury.

Later, we drove into the city (which was crawling with backpackers!).

We had a quick beer at the Anchor Bar, then dinner at Eastwood Dining, which we really enjoyed.

Not much else going on in town. We would have loved a nice hotel to relax in, but instead we had to make do with our meh accommodation.

29th September, Airlie Beach → Whitsundays

Packed everything again and managed to organize our stuff into just one bag, today we’re off on a 2-night catamaran tour in the Whitsundays. I’m thrilled, and I just hope the sea will be kind so I don’t end up seasick.

We had brunch at Wisdom Café. We shared an açai bowl (we’re both obsessed with it!) and then each had a halloumi sandwich. I’m trying to make sure everything is well digested before boarding the boat.

We dropped our luggage at a storage place and went to buy some beer for Oliver. The tour isn’t licensed to sell alcohol, so in true Aussie fashion, BYO!

It’s noon now and our tour doesn’t leave before 2:30 p.m. We sat at a random café (too hot to stay on the beach… not a cloud in the sky and easily over 30 degrees! Zürich will be quite the shock).

Parking the car near the marina turned into a surprisingly stressful ordeal. First, we weren’t even sure we were in the right spot. Then we tried to pay with EasyPark, which didn’t work. We rushed around looking for help and learned we needed another app. Download, create profile, add payment details… still nothing. Eventually, we found a physical pay station. Such a complicated system for something so simple!

Our host brought us to the catamaran, where we quickly realized we were by far the youngest couple. Besides us, there was a Swedish pair (50+, maybe almost 60), a British couple (60+) whom I found adorable, and an American–Australian couple: he’s 62, she’s 45. She was… a lot. I talk plenty myself, but she never paused for breath.

The first afternoon was mostly about sailing, and we were rewarded with a stunning sunset. Poseidon clearly blessed us: calm seas, no strong wind, and not a single cloud.

Our capitan was a fun guy, but his New Zealand accent made him very hard to understand…

Dinner exceeded expectations. Izzy, our host, made sure my dietary restrictions were respected (no meat and no bell peppers) and prepared a truly delicious meal. We went to bed early, I was completely lulled by the gentle rocking of the boat and slept through the night without stirring.

30th September, Whitsundays

We started the day with a big breakfast before heading to Heaven Beach, a place that more than lives up to its name. First, we stopped at a lookout, then walked down to the beach. I can hardly describe it, the sand was so soft and fine it felt like walking on powdered sugar. Our skipper had timed it perfectly: we arrived before any other boats, and for a while we had this paradise to ourselves.

The colors were surreal. The sea glowed with shades of blue I’d only ever seen in pastel paints, never in real life. Oli went for a swim while I stretched out on the sand and instantly fell asleep, feeling at peace with the world.

We strolled along the endless white beach, far enough away from the other couples on our tour that it felt like we were completely alone. Of course, we took far too many photos.

I was reluctant to leave after just an hour, but it was the right call. The rules are strict, boats can’t anchor nearby, tourists are only allowed short visits, and honestly, that’s what keeps it so pristine. As we left, we saw groups starting to arrive, and I was grateful we had experienced it in solitude.

Back on board, another generous lunch awaited us (they really do keep us well fed!). In the afternoon, it was time for snorkeling.

I’ve rarely done it, and truthfully, I don’t enjoy it much. Still, I pushed myself to try again. The water was warmer than a few days ago, and the corals and fish were more vivid and colorful. Yet I still felt uneasy, so after a while I signaled the skipper and waited with him on the small motorboat.

At the next snorkeling spot, I decided to skip it altogether and enjoyed some quiet time alone on the catamaran, reading. I probably missed some beautiful sights, but judging from how frozen everyone looked on the way back, I don’t think I would have enjoyed it much anyway.

Dinner was followed by group chatter, once again dominated by the endlessly talkative American lady. At some point, Oli and I quietly retreated into our phones, just to avoid the risk of blurting out what we were both thinking “shut up!!!!”

1st October, Whitsundays → Mackay coast

Our last day included a short walk on a small island. Nothing extraordinary, but still fun, the sand lay just under the water’s surface, giving the illusion that we were walking on water.

Back at the harbour, we picked up our car and drove straight to the same café we’d visited two days earlier. We shared an avocado toast, Oli treated himself to an amazing mango smoothie, and me… well, no surprise: chai, my latest obsession.

The drive took an hour and a half, during which I, unsurprisingly, fell asleep.

Our accommodation turned out better than expected, not luxurious, but comfortable. The upgrade helped: we were supposed to have a room with a private but external bathroom, but ended up with a small apartment and our own bathroom.

After a refreshing shower, we walked along the beach. Of course, after Heaven Beach, everything else pales in comparison, but it wasn’t bad at all.

Later we drove into Mackay, since the town we were staying in had absolutely nothing to offer. Mackay itself wasn’t particularly impressive either. What struck me most was how the city seemed to expand only horizontally, never vertically, most buildings were single-story but spread over large plots, like giant toads. We took a walk, which was honestly underwhelming.

Dinner, however, more than made up for it. We ate at Aahaar – Indian Kitchen & Bar, and it was fantastic. Probably the best dal tadka (lentil curry) I’ve ever had, rich, comforting, and exactly what I’d been craving after so much grilled barramundi. The portions were refreshingly normal, too. In Queensland, we’d often struggled with American-style servings that were simply too much to finish.

By 9 p.m. we were in bed, with the alarm set for 4:40 a.m., time to go see wallabies and kangaroos on the beach at sunrise!

2nd October, Mackay coast → Sydney

4:40 – the alarm rang and we quickly got ready to drive to a famous beach where you can spot wallabies and kangaroos at sunrise. Actually, even before sunrise, since they disappear once the light comes. I was overly excited about it, and maybe because of that, I ended up feeling a little disappointed.

Yes, they are wild. Yes, they live in a protected area. Yes, it’s forbidden to pet them or feed them… but in the end, so many people gather there that the rangers make sure no one gets too close. (If a kangaroo hops towards you, that’s fine, but you shouldn’t move closer yourself.) Still, we were super lucky. When we arrived, we saw one running, well, more like flying, away. It’s honestly scary how powerful their jumps are, the ground really shakes! On the beach, a particularly curious baby wallaby, with an unusually tolerant mum, came close and hopped around us. I have to admit something: when they’re squatting and looking down, they really do look like giant rats. But we still managed to capture some great photos, close-ups of kangaroos and even a mama wallaby with her baby in the pouch! It was touristy but sweet. (Nothing compared to the koala experience we had earlier, though. That was truly wild.)

Back at the accommodation, we napped for about two hours. Then: packing, packing, packing!!! For breakfast, we went to Organic & Natural Store. Not a huge selection, but we had a slice of cake each and shared a croissant. The cappuccinos were massive, definitely bigger than a normal mug.

Back on the road to the airport. Car fuelled and returned. The airport was tiny tiny. Luggage checked in, and Oli treated himself to an iced mocha coffee with ice cream. We were flying back to Sydney, heading towards the conclusion of our RGB honeymoon:

• Red, like the warm, earthy Outback
• Green, like the glorious Daintree rainforest
• Blue, like the pristine waters of the Whitsundays

I was really looking forward to being back in Sydney, I’ve fallen in love with the city. And back in Sydney we finally had a proper hotel! That’s a honeymoon hotel! Or maybe now, anything clean with a bit of space feels luxurious to me.

We had no fixed plans until our flight home. Just some chilled, relaxing time before Zürich life swallows us again in its frenetic rhythm. We did a quick round of souvenir shopping, then dinner at Yellow… oh my goodness. An absolutely amazing vegan restaurant, the kind even a meat lover would adore. The place is beautifully curated, stylish but not pretentious. The food was spectacular, with special mention to the date fudge with caramel sauce at the end. Our waiter gave us incredibly detailed explanations about the wine pairing Oliver picked, but honestly, I didn’t understand a single word. I stuck to two amazing mocktails and couldn’t have been happier.

Only small note: it felt a bit rushed at the end. I know they were closing, but if they take bookings for the six-course menu at 20:30, they should expect service to go at least past 22:00.

Finally, sleeping in a gigantic bed with lots of huggy pillows. Pure bliss.

3rd October, Sydney

This time we were determined to have an açaí bowl each. We tried two spots before settling on [name to be added]. Here it was served more like ice cream, but still very good. Portions were, once again, generously Australian!

We visited the Rocks Markets for a bit of shopping. I was set on getting those jewellery pieces made from real eucalyptus leaves dipped in gold, absolutely gorgeous. We also picked up some super cute cards for birthdays and other occasions, and a kangaroo leather wallet for my brother (I feel so freaking bad that I won’t be there the next day for his bachelor graduation).

But the real reason we came back to the Rocks was to buy the marvellous emu painting we fell in love with two weeks ago. Yes, it’s expensive, but it will look stunning above the piano in the living room. We were absolutely thrilled, finally, it’s ours!

The rest of the day flowed softly, with long and calm strolls through the city. Ready, or maybe not, to say goodbye to Australia and our honeymoon.

We wanted to make sure our last dinner was great, so we went back to Callao. I have to say, the atmosphere was very different on a weekend, lots of people, chatting, and music. The food was once again excellent (we even ordered the same starters because they were sooooo good), but I preferred the calm vibe of the weekday.

We each had a dessert (very rare for us, we usually share), and I was delighted with my super chocolatey one. Oli, who has a sweet tooth but isn’t the biggest fan of chocolate, wasn’t as impressed. The waitress from last time even recognised us, she was so lovely.

4th October, Sydney → Zürich

We love closures, so we decided to have brunch at the same place where we had our very first meal after landing. I’m in love with that place, the bread, the eggs, the coffee, everything is cooked so perfectly.

I also tried a turmeric latte, which I loved. Oliver, as expected, did not. He’s a classic cappuccino guy!

Oliver started a timer from the moment we left the hotel… Spoiler: it took us 28 hours to reach our apartment door! What a long journey, totally worth it, but oh boy, long.